Sunday, June 26, 2011

Restaurants With A View: Beaumarchais

From the current issue of h Magazine www.hmonthly.com
available at select Barnes/Nobles in Manhattan


Brasserie Beaumarchais
409 West 13th Street
Washington Street & Ninth Avenue
212-675-2400

Is your name on the list? Do you have a reservation? Yes, I know its 1pm on Sunday….but stepping across the threshold here for Le Grand Brunch transports you to the finest scene west of Les Caves du Roy in Saint Tropez. Champagne magnums pop in a pomp and ceremony of lit fireworks and involves your magnum held high by a waitress being flat-out carried to the table by two waiters flying across the room…the music crescendo makes the room tremble with excitement; now this is service, is that the score from star wars remixed or 2001 a space odyssey? No matter, dining here brings you delicious food and super-sized fantasy chicly played out steps from the highline and cobblestone streets of the charming meat packing district. Bring your black card, or at least your platinum and be prepared to be impressed.

Chef Nicholas Cantrel who’s honed his skills at Daniel, Country and Bobo amongst others takes simplicity and adds a level of sophistication that speaks volumes in fashionable flavor unlike any destination on the island of Manhattan. Dining on their ample outdoor seating gives you a front row seat on the right side of the velvet rope. You’ve arrived to enjoy the playful scene inside and out at Beaumarchais, whose name is inspired after the 18th century French dramatist and inventor.
Dishes like the Gnocchi  à la Parisienne are refreshingly light and use flour instead of potatoes. These tiny clouds made with black truffles and finished with an exquisite truffle butter sauce alight the plate in flavor.

The Tartare de Thon is a deliciously diced tuna served atop a creamy citrus avocado salad with grape seed oil.
Their pancakes are the lightest little cakes that almost float off the plate were it not for the accompanying nutella, maple syrup, peanut butter, fresh fruit or candied walnuts. The hearty truffled roast chicken with country style potatoes, onions and mushrooms updates a peasant dish to new heights of seasoned subtle flavors.
Dinner is recommended for a late seating as the festivities really kick in for late night flare. “Le Grand Brunch” every Saturday and Sunday from11:30am is a must for those who dare to dress to impress and bring an attitude for fun and a smile to match. By 230pm, the black-out curtains are drawn in the main dining room, the DJ has pumped up the volume to club-decimal levels and people are dancing on their chairs. Is it 4am on the cote d'azur or 4pm in Manhattan? No matter, after sipping their signature cocktails, including the remarkable La Sangria Rouge and the smoky Maple Hill with Woodford Reserve, Maple Syrup and peach bitters you’ll be smiling all the way home.



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